Muster

Sacred heritage

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Grad Komiža

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On the islands of Vis, Biševo and Sveca, churches have been preserved that testify to the millennial presence of Christianity and the Benedictine order in this part of the Adriatic. The Church of Our Lady of Planica on Vis, with its rare circular shape, is reminiscent of the Church of St. Donatus in Zadar, while on Sveca, the small church of St. Andrew has been preserved – the remains of a former Benedictine monastery from the 13th century. On Biševo, in the settlement of Polje, there is the Church of St. Sylvester, built in the mid-11th century, known for the Madonna of Biševo, one of the oldest images of the Virgin Mary in Dalmatia. These valuable monuments of culture and religion, today protected cultural properties, connect the islands into a unique historical and spiritual whole.

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English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski

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Points of interest

#1

Church of St. Nicholas (Muster)

The monastery and church of St. Nicholas, known in Komiža as Muster, were first mentioned in the mid-13th century as a branch of the monastery on Biševo. Tradition has it that the Benedictines left Biševo due to pirate attacks and built a fortified monastery on a hill above Komiža. At the end of the century, the monastery became independent and had its own abbot. In addition to agriculture, the monks were also involved in trade and owned a ship named St. Nicholas. Muster was a Benedictine monastery until the 15th century, and after their departure the church was expanded over the centuries and became the parish and cemetery church of Komiža. The oldest part of the present-day five-nave church is a Romanesque building from the 13th century, today's northern nave with a semicircular sanctuary. There used to be a cloister and residential buildings next to it. Two towers have been preserved from the fortress: the southern one from the 13th century, one of the oldest in Dalmatia, and a smaller tower on which a bell tower was built in the 18th century. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the church was additionally fortified due to Turkish threats. During the attack of 1571, the monastery was destroyed, and new fortifications were carried out in 1645 by building a bastion on the northern side. At the end of the 18th century, bronze cannons were placed on its peaks. The interior of the church is marked by wooden and marble altars. The large wooden altar is considered one of the best examples of local woodcarving. The Bethlehem altar from 1692 is among the oldest preserved depictions of the nativity scene in Croatia. The church also houses numerous tombstones with inscriptions and coats of arms from the 14th to the 18th centuries, and the choir has an organ from 1895. Muster is also known for two rituals: the celebration of St. Nicholas and the Quarantors. On the feast of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors, an old wooden ship is burned in front of the church. The ashes are used to bless new ships, symbolizing Komižan's connection with the sea. Kvarantore is a ceremony of adoration of the Blessed Sacrament that lasts forty hours. It begins on Palm Sunday and ends on Tuesday evening, a week before Easter. In Komiža, this custom is observed in its original form, without major changes since the 18th century. The altars are decorated with red cloth, flowers, candlesticks and statues, and more than 120 candles are burned during the ceremony. The muster has thus been a place of defense, a parish church and a center of religious customs throughout the centuries. Its history and present-day rituals testify to the enduring connection of Komižan with faith and the sea.

Audio guides available in:
Italiano, Hrvatski, English (British)

#2

Church of St. Mary the Pirate

The Church of St. Mary the Pirate in Komiža is one of the most important cultural and religious landmarks of this place. It was built in the mid-16th century on the coast, on a pebble beach, in the Renaissance style. It is special for its unusual shape – it consists of three interconnected churches, so the facade appears as a series of three triangular ends. It is built of finely worked stone blocks, and the entrance door is decorated with Renaissance moldings and a simple lunette. The name “Pirate” is associated with the legend according to which pirates stole her painting, but after their shipwrecked, the sea returned it to the shore in front of the church. There is a record of this from the 18th century, and the legend is still part of the local heritage today. The interior of the church has a three-nave design – the naves are separated by arches on massive masonry columns, and each naves has a different vault. The central one has a Gothic vault with a pointed arch in the apse, the western one also has a Gothic vault, while the eastern one is covered with a semicircular vault with Baroque features. There are five altars in the church, and the main altar with gilded Baroque statues of the Annunciation is particularly noteworthy. The wooden choir is valuable and richly decorated - the middle part is Baroque gilded, and the side wings are closed with carved grilles. Next to the church is a small courtyard with an octagonal well in which spring water is kept. Each of the eight sides of the well is decorated with reliefs with figures of saints and biblical motifs: St. Nicholas, St. Andrew, St. Anthony, Archangel Michael, Adam and Eve, Our Lady with Child, the divine lamb and the symbol of a torch in the open door. The Church of St. Mary the Pirate, with its altars, sailors' vows and rich artistic equipment, not only bears witness to the piety and cultural creativity of the people of Komiža, but also has the status of a protected cultural asset of the Republic of Croatia - an immovable cultural asset of individual value.

Audio guides available in:
English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski

#3

Church of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows

The Church of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows, also known as the “New Church” in Komiža, is the youngest church in the town. It was built in 1759 near the 16th-century castle “Komuna”, at the initiative of the then parish priest and writer Mihovil (Mihael) Milinković and with financial contributions from the faithful. Permission for construction was obtained from the Venetian Doge Loredan and the Bishop of Hvar Bonajuti. According to the Latin inscription on the facade, the church was built primarily so that communion could be brought from it as quickly as possible to the infirm and dying, or to distribute alms. The construction was carried out by Ivan Petrašić, the most prominent builder from a family known for its long tradition of repairing and building churches, on Milinković’s orders. Due to the lack of space in the old town core, the church is not oriented with its facade facing west, like most Vis churches, but had to adapt to the surrounding houses. The exterior is characterized by a late Baroque facade with a distaff carrying three bells, while the throne is carved with relief volutes. Inside, there is a small marble altar with a painting of Our Lady of Sorrows, and the walls are decorated with images of St. Jerome and the Virgin Mary with Child surrounded by saints. The choir in the church was made by the same master who designed the one in the Church of Our Lady of the Pirates. The Gothic sprinkling font, older than the church itself, is especially valuable, and is assumed to have been transferred from Muster, the Church of St. Nicholas. A room intended for a baptistery was added to the church, with a wall-mounted custodian for holy oils, and it shows the stylistic characteristics of the Bokanić workshop. The Church of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows is still used for everyday rituals today, which is a rarity in this area. Due to its history, artistic value and special purpose, it occupies an important place in the spiritual and cultural life of Komiža.

Audio guides available in:
English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski

#4

Church of the Holy Spirit

The Church of the Holy Spirit is located on the highest peak of the island of Vis – Hum Hill, at an altitude of 560 meters above sea level. It is one of the smallest and simplest churches on the island, which, with its modest appearance, with a narrow door and two small windows, is more reminiscent of a field house than a sacred building. The only stylistic feature it bears is the Gothic vault, which is why it is assumed to date from the 15th century, although it is possible that it was created later, because the stylistic features were often retained even after the official end of the era. The importance of this church is evidenced by records from the 17th and 18th centuries. Bishop Milani, in his visit in 1650, recorded that it had been visited in processions “since ancient times”. Don Antun Matijašević Karamaneo in 1716 describes how on Whit Tuesday believers from all over the island gathered at the church: after the mass, the blessing of the fields was held, and then they continued towards Dračevo polje and Vis, where the rituals were repeated in several places. On the same day, the people of Komiža also made a pilgrimage to Hum, which shows how much the church had a common meaning for the entire island. During the Austrian rule in the 19th century, it was occasionally forbidden to perform religious rituals there, but the tradition has been preserved to this day. Today, mass is held in the Church of the Holy Spirit once a year – on the feast of Pentecost, fifty days after Easter. In addition to its religious significance, the location of the church also attracts many visitors due to its location. Right next to it is an airstrip for paragliders, and from the road to Hum, you can reach Tito's Cave, the former headquarters of the Supreme Headquarters of the Partisan Army, by taking stone steps.

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English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski

#5

Chapel of St. Blaise

The Chapel of St. Blaise is one of the oldest religious buildings on the island of Vis, and was first mentioned in the 12th century as the property of the Benedictines from Biševo, who at that time also managed the Church of St. Sylvester. It was built in the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque style, and throughout history it has been renovated and expanded several times, especially in the 14th and 16th centuries. This chapel is a typical example of coastal churches – simple, built of stone and covered with stone slabs. On the facade there is a small bell tower on a distaff, which is still in use today. Although the exact date of its construction is unknown, a record from the second half of the 17th century states that the pavement at that time was already dilapidated, which indicates a much older origin, probably from the 16th century. The chapel is dedicated to St. Blaise, the patron saint of the throat. On his feast day, February 3, a mass and traditional throat blessing ceremony are held there – the only day of the year when the church holds a liturgy. The rest of the year, the chapel is mostly closed, but it remains an important place of devotion and local tradition. A hiking trail leads to the Chapel of St. Blaise, which branches off from trail number 15. From the pass where the chapel is located, the path continues towards the valley and the gravel road, and then towards the village of Dragodid or west towards the vineyards and the abandoned barracks. The trail ends in Barjaška Bay, where the remains of military infrastructure can be found, including the destroyed cannon nests on Cape Barjaci. The Chapel of St. Blaise thus represents not only the spiritual and cultural heritage of Vis, but also an important point on the island's hiking routes, connecting natural beauty, historical layers and religious tradition.

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English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski

#6

St. Michael's Church

The Church of St. Michael is located on a hill pass east of Komiža, at an altitude of more than 300 meters above sea level. It was built in the 12th century as a Benedictine church of the monastery of St. Sylvester on Biševo, and during its long history it has been renovated and extended several times. The most significant renovation was carried out in the 18th century, when the church was partially Baroque, but it retained its basic Romanesque features. It is a single-nave building with a square apse and a main facade oriented to the west. On the facade rises a simple distaff with a bell, built in the 14th century. The church is built of regularly cut stone connected by wide joints, and the interior partially preserves the lancets with blind arches - a typical feature of early Romanesque. The architecture clearly shows the transition from the pre-Romanesque to the Romanesque style: square oblong stones, brick door frames, a small round window on the facade and a series of smaller windows on the side walls. The interior is particularly notable for the transition from the square part of the apse to its semicircular vault, as well as the raised altar on the steps. The church is mentioned again in written sources in the 14th century, and at the beginning of the 17th century it was renovated thanks to the gift of a Komiža resident. At that time, an altar with a valuable triptych of St. Michael between St. George and St. Nicholas was placed in it, along with wooden statues of angels. Today, the church of St. Michael has the status of a protected immovable cultural asset and represents a valuable example of sacral architecture on the island of Vis. Although it is located by the road and is easily accessible, it is only open once a year, on the feast of St. Michael (September 29), when mass is held and believers from all over Komiža gather.

Audio guides available in:
Hrvatski, English (British), Italiano

#7

Church of St. Roko

The Church of St. Roch in Komiža is one of the most interesting examples of fortified religious buildings on the island of Vis. It is located on the southern edge of the town, above the sea, above the Mlin Bay, where it guards the boundaries of the settlement like a stone tower. Its appearance is more reminiscent of a defensive tower than a church, which is no coincidence - during the time of frequent pirate attacks it served as both a spiritual refuge and a shelter for the population. There was already a small church dedicated to St. Roch, the protector against the plague, on this site in the 16th century. The brotherhood of Our Lady of Mount Carmel was active next to it from 1677. Since the old church was too small and dilapidated, the prominent Mardešić family from Komiža received permission from the Bishop of Hvar, Jakov Pontali, in 1763 to build a new, larger church in the shape of a tower. The old building was converted into a sacristy, and traces of its door are still visible today. The new church of St. The church of St. Roch is shaped like a compact rectangular block with a hipped roof. There are almost no windows – just a small round opening on the facade and a few small windows under the roof. The door was protected by side loopholes and a defensive hanging wall (machicolation) above the entrance, a typical element of fortifications on the Adriatic. It was not until the 20th century that a small bell tower was added on a preslica, transferred from the old church. The interior is adorned with a late Baroque wooden altar with an altarpiece of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, St. Roch, St. Vincent of Ferenc and St. Simon Stock, the work of the Italian painter Joan Panson di Spezia from 1895. There is also a statue of St. Roch on the wall, which was once carried in processions on the saint’s feast day (August 16) and during epidemics. The Church of St. Roch is unique on Vis because it combines a sacral and defensive function. With its tower-like shape and ascetic architecture, it is reminiscent of similar church-fortresses in Vrboska, Jelsa or Suđurđe on Sipan. Today, in addition to its spiritual value, it remains a valuable monument to Komiža's turbulent past, a witness to a time when pirate attacks shaped the appearance of religious buildings.

Audio guides available in:
Hrvatski, English (British), Italiano

#8

St. Anthony's Church

The small church of St. Anthony of Padua is located in the village of Oključna, next to a house with a semicircular tower, and was built as a private family chapel. It was built on July 8, 1714, on an estate called Mirce, which the Venetian government granted to Frano Visković from Perast for his services in the wars against the Ottomans. The chapel was blessed by the then parish priest of Komiža, Andrija Kuljiš, and its history is also confirmed in the records of Antun Matijašević Karamane, who, just a few years after its construction, lists Visković as its builder. The Visković family coat of arms can still be seen on the lintel of the church today, which further testifies to its origin. Built in the Baroque style, this small chapel has a simple architecture, but is significant because it connects sacral and family traditions, and reflects the spirit of the time when prominent families built their own places of worship next to their estates. The small church of St. Anthony of Padua remains a precious monument of cultural and historical heritage of Oključna and the entire island of Vis.

Audio guides available in:
English (British), Hrvatski, Italiano

#9

Church of Our Lady of Planica

The Church of Our Lady of Planica (Blessed Virgin Mary) is located in Kostirna, along the old road connecting Vis and Komiža, between the churches of St. Nicholas and St. Michael. It was first mentioned in sources in 1668, and although three construction phases can be recognized in the structure of the walls, its style belongs to the Baroque period. It is special for its circular floor plan with a shallow rectangular apse to the east, which is extremely rare in Croatian church architecture. At the top of the roof there is a circular lantern whose shape resembles a crown, while the final cornice of rhomboid-shaped bricks further emphasizes its originality. The door with a Baroque cushion and acanthus leaf decoration and round windows with volutes complete its decorative Baroque plastic. The interior is simple: the walls are plastered with white plaster, and under the dome they end with a stone profiled cornice. In the apse there is a small stone Baroque altar depicting the “Meeting of Mary and Elizabeth”, which also reveals the church’s dedication – Mary’s Visit to Elizabeth, which is traditionally celebrated on July 2. Due to its age, distinctive architecture and historical value, the Church of Our Lady of Planica is registered in the Register of Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia as a protected immovable cultural property (code Z-5695). Today it is considered one of the most important sacral monuments on the island of Vis, and due to its circular shape it is often compared to the Church of St. Donatus in Zadar.

Audio guides available in:
English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski

#10

Church of St. Andrew (Svetac)

The Church of St. Andrew on the island of Svec is the only surviving remnant of the former Benedictine monastery, mentioned in written sources as early as the 13th century. The monastery was located on the southern tip of the island, and the Benedictines resided on Svec until the end of the 15th or beginning of the 16th century. The church was built on the site of an older, pre-Romanesque building, and its current form dates from the 18th century. The church is single-nave, with a semicircular apse and a bell tower on a preslic, and its main facade is oriented towards the south. It houses a bell from 1524, decorated with a bas-relief in the Renaissance style, as well as the remains of a stone statue of St. Andrew, now broken and damaged by salt. The apse with a crescent-shaped triumphal arch is still visible on the ruins of the older church from the 13th century, while the rest could be discovered by future archaeological research. The island of Svetac (about 4 km²), located 15 nautical miles west of Komiža, has been uninhabited since the mid-20th century. In addition to the church of St. Andrew, the island also contains the ruins of a medieval monastery and a fortress that tradition attributes to the Illyrian queen Teuta, which is why Svetac is often called "Teuta's Island". The church of St. Andrew today has the status of a protected cultural asset (immovable cultural asset - individual) and represents a valuable monument of early Christian and Benedictine heritage in the Vis aquatorium.

Audio guides available in:
Hrvatski, English (British), Italiano

#11

Church of St. Sylvester (Biševo)

The Church of St. Sylvester in the settlement of Polje on the island of Biševo was built in 1050. Its builder was the priest Ivan Gaudijev Grlić from Split, who handed it over to the Benedictines from the Tremiti Islands for management. The church was built on the site of an older early Christian building from the 6th century, as evidenced by the remains of mosaics, ceramics and ancient walls discovered during archaeological research. The Monastery of St. Sylvester soon became a significant Benedictine abbey, in full force during the 12th and 13th centuries, with its own abbot and a large number of monks. It had estates on Biševo, Vis and Hvar and great privileges, which are confirmed by papal and royal charters. In the 13th century, the monks moved to the Monastery of St. Nicholas (Muster) in Komiža due to pirate attacks, while the Biševo monastery gradually lost its importance. The church, originally pre-Romanesque, was rebuilt over time - in the 13th/14th In the 19th century it received a vault with pylons, in the 15th century massive buttresses, and in the 19th century a bell tower with a preslica and additional modifications to the interior. Conservation and restoration works in 1994/95 restored its medieval appearance: the apse was cleaned, a 19th-century wall was removed, the roof was renovated, and valuable traces such as the graffiti of a galley and the graves of monks were discovered. The most famous artistic treasure of the church was the Biševo Madonna – one of the oldest paintings of the Virgin Mary in Dalmatia (around 1220), a work of proto-Venetian painting. Today it is kept in the Hvar Cathedral of St. Stephen. On the feast of St. Sylvester, December 31, a holy mass is still celebrated in the church, after which locals and visitors celebrate the holiday with a gathering. The Church of St. Silvester and the remains of the monastery form a unique historical and cultural whole, testifying to the important role of Biševo in the Middle Ages and the rich heritage of the Benedictines on the Adriatic islands.

Audio guides available in:
English (British), Italiano, Hrvatski